Wet shaving at its simplest, is just that--shaving with water, a razor blade, and some sort of lubricant (lather, soap, etc.) on your face. Men have shaved this way for centuries, starting early on with a sharp knife or stone, progressing to the straight razor, safety (double-edge) razors, and eventually cartridge razors from companies like Gillette, etc.

To remove facial hair, of course! Less facetiously, a closer shave can generally be had from a wet shave versus an electric razor. Perhaps more importantly, the ritual, scents, and connection to the past associated with using high-quality wet shaving products can turn what is generally viewed as a chore into something pleasurable. Many men also feel their skin quality is improved by the exfoliating nature of the wet shave and the moisturizing nature of the products used.

You are thinking about your first shave. What do you need? How do you proceed? Any tips? Have a look at the Getting started wetshaving page.

Mostly for women but some might like to know the process of shaving their legs. Here's a Link.

The fundamental tools of the trade are water (obviously), some sort of lubricant (usually shaving cream or soap) that can be used to form a lather, a brush to apply the lather, and a razor to remove the beard.

For tips on where to buy shaving gear, the shopping category is a good place to start.

Double edge safety razors are the kind of razor your father and grandfather most likely used. The blade itself is a thin, flexible, two sided metal blade made to be used in a safety razor. These blades have a standard dimension of 42.75 mm long, 21.98 mm wide from cutting edge to cutting edge and they are approximately 0.11 mm thick. A safety razor holds the double-edge ("DE") blade in place, and can be either fixed or adjustable in how much blade edge is exposed. Common brands include the currently manufactured Merkur and Mühle-Pinsel, and vintage Gillette and Schick razors. The patent on Gillette's safety razor dates to 1901.

In 1921, Colonel Schick (who else?) invented a safety razor inspired by the army repeating (magazine-fed, bolt-action) rifle. It had replacement blades stored in a clip in the handle ready to be fed into shaving position by pivoting the head and stroking a built in lever, without the chore and danger of handling a sharp blade. This was the forerunner of the Schick Injector Razor. The razor blades are stored in a separate magazine, which is used to eject the old blade and inject the new one without touching a sharp blade.

While injectors are technically also "single-edged" razors, common parlance distinguishes "SE" from "injector" based on the difference in the blade replacement technique and size of the blade. SE razors (the large majority of which were made by the American Safety Razor Company or one of its satellite brands like GEM or PAL) use larger blades, identical in design to "paint scraper" blades. Note that paint scraper blades are not intended for shaving. SE razor blades are still manufactured and are available in drug stores and from online resellers such as Ted Pella.

Straight Razors (cut-throats) were among the first metal implements fashioned specifically for shaving. They are sharp, open metal blade with a handle to protect and store it. It needs considerable care to keep sharp enough for shaving. Excessive and deep wrinkles may cause shaving difficulty.

Disposable (fixed-head) and cartridge razors began to appear in volume in the early 1970s. Since then, there has been a proliferation of single, double, triple, quadruple, quintuple, and now sextuple-blade cartridge systems sold to the public.

Much of this is personal preference. Many men choose to shave with a disposable or cartridge razor with some sort of canned foam or gel. While easy to use, this method has several negative issues: (1) cartridge razors are expensive; (2) aerosols used to dispense the cream or gel from the can are not good for the environment; (3) aerosol foam and gel are generally viewed as poor lather; and (4) a cartridge razor is made for the "average" male face, leaving little room for superior results. Furthermore, multi-blade razors can be quite irritating to many men due to repeated shaving of the same area by the multiple blades and the possibility of ingrown hairs due to the alleged "lift and cut" operation called "hysteresis" by Gillette. Side note: "Hysteresis" means "a delay in the system" or "shortcoming"; from the Greek hysterein, "to fall behind" and hysteros, "later," [1][2] though the common modern usage means systems that have a memory or lag.

The use of a double edge (DE) or SE razor can alleviate most of these problems for most users. The blades are inexpensive, sharp, and when properly used can provide an extremely close shave with little or no irritation. The same can be said of straight razors, though they have a higher learning curve.

Experience differs here, but a good average is to change your blade once a week. This will vary with the number of passes you make with the blade for each shave. If you feel the blade skipping or nicking, then perhaps it is time to change it sooner. If you see light reflecting on the cutting edge it is time to discard or resharpen.

Take a look at Razor cleaning and restoration and Safety razor maintenance.

A shaving brush consists of a handle containing some sort of animal hair, usually boar or badger bristles. These animals are somewhat unique in that their hair absorbs water rather than repelling it. This allows water in the brush to mix with the shaving cream or soap to create a lather suitable for shaving. There is also a third kind of brush, one with synthetic fiber instead of hair. These brushes generally are cheapest and of lesser quality, but of use particularly for people who object to using animal products.

The bristles in the brush aerate/hydrate the water and cream (or soap) to form lather. This is used to lubricate and protect the face during the shave. In addition the bristles have a mild exfoliating effect on the skin. Perhaps most importantly, the brush feels very good on the face--a very soothing feeling indeed when warm lather is applied.

There are many types of brushes at many different price points. The handle should be comfortable to hold, and the bristles tightly packed. "Knot size", or the diameter of the bristle mass at the handle end, is a measure of how large the brush is. Larger knot sizes make it easier to create large quantities of lather, but can be somewhat unwieldy on a small face. In the end, personal preference and aesthetics will determine what one person prefers versus another. A 22-26 mm knot size is a good starting point for many beginners. The B&B wiki contains an incomplete list of brush manufacturers.

Boar bristles are thicker, stiffer and hold less water than badger, and the brushes made from them are generally cheaper. Many men feel boar bristles are well suited to hard soap due to the stiffness of the bristles. Badger bristles, however, are much softer than boar and feel more luxurious on the face. Synthetic bristles have been improving in recent years and are now more than shave worthy.

Yes, the badger is killed to get the bristles. Most badger hair is harvested in China where the animal is also consumed for its meat. Certain premium badger hair grades (e.g. 'white badger') are harvested in Europe, but how the remains are disposed of is not popularly documented.

There are several grades of badger hair, but unfortunately the nomenclature is not standardized. Generally, "pure badger" is the lowest grade, coming from the back of the animal. Pure badger is a dark color, and is the least soft of the grades. "Finest" (sometimes "best" or "super") badger is the middle grade, and has white tips with a dark band below. "Silvertip" is the highest grade, with very soft white bristles, also with a dark band below. Silvertip is harvested from the animal's neck area. More information on badger hair grades can be found here.

Please refer to this section of Wiki for more information on the shaving brush.

A lather is formed by the aeration/hydration of a shaving cream or hard soap. A good soap/cream creates lather easily, lubricates and protects the face during the shave, and provides a pleasant aroma during the shave.

Soap making was an established craft in Europe by the seventh century, and were the first products used to create shaving lather. More than likely whatever hand/body soap was around the house was used to create a lather for shaving. Later, soaps specifically formulated for shaving were created. Shaving cream is even a more recent phenomenon, only having existed for the past two hundred years or so. Creams have a soft consistency, containing glycerin, naturally occurring saponified fats, and added scents. Hard soaps are generally poured into a container or formed into cakes.

Skin can react quite differently to different products, so what works well for one person may not work for someone else. In general, the more lubricating the material is, the better the shave will be. Of secondary concern is the scent of the product. These fall into several categories, including floral, woody, cologne-scented, etc.

What is it? It is the foundation of a good shave. A bad prep will equal a bad shave, guaranteed.

Most members will either take a hot shower, some use a product such as soap, shampoo and/or conditioner to prepare their beard, others use a hot towel. Various techniques can be employed to prepare the skin. The required actions to prepare the skin to the shave are detailed here.

Regardless of whether you use a soap or a cream, soak your brush in hot water. This warms the bristles and loads them with water. If you are using a bowl fill this with hot water also. Get your face nice and wet; it is best to shave after a shower, when your beard is at its softest. At the very least, apply a hot towel to your face for a few minutes before shaving. See the Lathers page for more information on lathering.

To learn how to make great lather, follow this tutorial.

The first shave with a double edge razor can be somewhat frightening. Follow these steps and you will get a close, irritation-free shave. First, get your face very wet and lather up as discussed above. Again, after a shower your beard will be at its softest.

Before you even pick up the razor, consider two important factors: (1) use as little pressure on the razor as possible, and (2) angle the razor handle away from your face as much as possible (more parallel to floor). Remember that pivoting-head cartridge razors are very forgiving: it is difficult to cut yourself with one. This is not the case with a DE. You want the razor to glide over your beard. Don't press down, but let the weight of the razor do the work. Don't worry. It will work. For the right angle, try this: put the top of the razor head directly against your cheek, with the handle completely parallel to the floor. At this angle, no part of the blade is in contact with your beard, and nothing will cut. Now slowly lower the handle until the blade just can cut the hair. This is the proper angle (approximately 30 degrees from horizontal) so you are cutting, not scraping the whiskers. These two practices together, no pressure and angle, will prevent you from getting irritation and razor burn. I like to think of keeping my elbow high to get the angle right. After you are done shaving, splash some cold water on to close up your pores, and proceed to the after shave treatment.

If you are new to DE shaving, keep it very simple and short at first--one N-S pass. Your face will take time to adjust to your new routine, so don't worry about closeness at first, only technique. Beginners should not attempt to shave against the grain, only with it, and, after a little experience, across it. As you get better, you can add multiple passes (re-lathering in between) to get a very close shave.

It's best to stick with a single razor while learning. The correct angle and handling can be quite different from one razor to another, so changing razors too early or too often can make it harder to learn the skills you need for a good DE shave. Many users branch out in search of the razor which gives them the best results, but this is something better left until you can competently use just one.

The brand of blades for your double edge razor is an important choice. Many new users are surprised by how much difference can be felt by switching from brand A to brand B. Beginners are often encouraged to try out several brands and select the one which works best for them. You may find that your taste in blades changes as your technique improves.

On a clean shaven and lathered face you may want try out a DE razor's weight & balance using no blade.

Many fear the Straight Razor and see it as a tool that can potentially hurt you very badly. Let's not forget it's a 3" edge blade that you are putting against your throat. Always respect the edge! If you go slowly and shave carefully, there won't be any problems.

Make sure that you have a shave ready straight razor. If the razor was previously stropped by your Honemeister, generally, you won't need to strop it again. Verify this with your Honemeister before your first shave. The razor will need to be stropped between each shaves. When shaving, you will need a very light pressure. Start with an angle of 30 degrees and go slowly.

Your first shave should consist of 2 passes WTG. Try to limit yourself and do not force the shave. Do not expect the closest shave, there will be stubble left. This will build up your confidence and when you think it's time, try XTG and later, ATG.

After your shave, your skin is at its most vulnerable. Some sort of post-shave treatment is in order. The simplest thing you can do is spritz on some hydrosol such as Witch hazel. Hydrosols are the byproducts of the steam distillation of plant essential oils. It is essentially water with the essence of the plant in it. They are very lightly moisturizing, soothing, and smell nice. Depending on your face, you may need some additional moisturizing. There are many products on the market, try them out to see what is best for you.

Shaving soaps and creams are slightly alkaline by their nature (the saponification process uses a highly alkaline material to convert fats into soap). To return your skin to a neutral pH state and help remove any soap residuals, you can tone your face. Most toners also provide an astringent effect that helps close the pores that are usually wide open after the hot water and warm lather of a wet shave. The hydrosols mentioned above are good examples. Some shavers use Alum to seal small nicks, relieve razor burn, and tone the skin.

Do you remember when your father taught you to shave and he showed you how to splash on some alcohol-containing after shave on your raw face after your shave? Hurt, didn't it? Nowadays there are many more options that won't dry out your face, as well as provide some relief from razor burn and irritation. If you like the sting of alcohol, however, there are high-quality after shave products out there that are good for your face; try a few types and see what works for you.

Razor burn is another word for irritation caused by shaving, usually resulting in red, irritated bumps on the skin. This can be caused by many things, including overly-aggressive shaving, improper razor angle causing scraping, shaving aggressively against the grain, and insufficient lubrication. Common treatments include witch hazel, alum blocks, and after-shave balms.

Ingrown hairs, also referred to as "folliculitis" are a common problem with cartridge razors and electric razors which use a "lift and cut" action. Ingrowns are hairs which are shaved too close and then do not emerge from the follicle, but grow into the skin, causing painful bumps. Shaving with a DE or SE can reduce ingrown hairs, but many people are susceptible to them regardless of shaving regimen. Sometimes, Blade Angle is a factor.

One home remedy for ingrown hairs is to rub the bump lightly with a clean, dry, soft toothbrush, to exfoliate and free the trapped hair. You can also make a paste by crushing aspirin with a few drops of water. Apply the paste to the bump for five minutes, and then rinse it off.

Related links:

• http://mantic59.blogspot.com/2009/11/ingrown-hairs.html
  
• http://barbereile.blogspot.com/2011/...rown-hair.html
  
• http://mantic59.blogspot.com/2010/03...own-hairs.html
  
• http://mantic59.blogspot.com/2008/12...-tiptrick.html
  

Small cuts can occur during shaving, called "nicks" or "weepers." Often they stop bleeding by themselves, especially after a cold water rinse following the shave. For those that do not stop bleeding, an astringent/styptic/antihemorrhagic such as a wet styptic pencil can be applied for a few moments, or an alum block run over the skin. For minor nicks, witch hazel's astringent effect can be sufficient to close the nick.

When using a DE razor, one of the most frequent problem is the angle of the blade. How to get that perfect angle is not easy when you've never done it before. It should be 30 degrees. If you need any help finding this angle, consult the Blade Angle page.

Many shave products are now restricted by government authority and cannot be carried on an aircraft, including gels and liquids (shave creams, hydrosols, aftershaves, etc.) and razor blades (loose or in a razor). The only form of razor that can be carried on board an aircraft is a cartridge-type razor, or a safety razor with no blade in it. The wiki pages on air travel and travel shave brushes have more details.

In addition to the section on brush care, above, there is a wiki page on razor storage.

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The cold water shave is a different technique where cold water is used to shave instead of warm water. It's a matter of preference in the end as some will get a closer shave with cold water and some won't. For more information, consult this page.

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